Soho House's previous creation was the underwhelming Pizza East in Shoreditch so there seemed to be no rush to visit their new restaurant at Dean Street Townhouse, which had a celeb packed opening in late November, but it turns out to be a classic.

The photos on their website don't do the dining room justice, the lights are dimmer and it's not as stiff as they might suggest. Come mid-afternoon the candles emerge to add to the cosy effect. Service is quite formal and a little distant but it is Soho and they are busy.

The traditional British menu includes the kind of fish, chips and mushy peas you always hope for but never really get and all for a very fair £13.75.

Certain chains that shall remain nameless charge £12.50 for some lousy chips, a big fish finger and mushy peas as a £3.50 side order, which brings the total to £16. You should weep with joy after eating fish and chips for that price, not leave thinking you've been screwed.

The option of one healthy dessert would be nice and the clubby style might be attracting some people who expect the earth, but Dean Street Townhouse shows you can get something special for the prices found in many a high street chain (assuming you don't have a 2 for 1 voucher). There's probably a good chain to be had from such a place.

Dean Street Townhouse, 69-71 Dean Street, W1D