If Jamie Oliver were to start an Indian restaurant chain then it would be much like the new Dishoom in Covent Garden and he did just open next door so maybe Jamie does secretly back Dishoom and got good deal on the combined rent but keeps quiet to avoid showing off.

Under the skin it's an Indian Wagamama but with help from the design genius of Afroditi Krassa (who styled Itsu) they've created a smart contemporary colonial pizza expressey kind of space that people in suits and students can feel at home in. Details like the nice lights, incense burning in the bathroom and especially the very groovy alcove booths in the basement put it on another level to the usual concept restaurant and even the fake Bombay pictures on the wall look good.

It almost appears too upmarket from the outside but a chicken berry biryani is just £7.80 and healthy grilled fish and butter free naan breads are available for those who don't want to bust their stomach. There was lots of contented murmurs from fellow diners and Dishoom is the clear winner of the new threesome at St Martins Courtyard, although Jamie's was packed next door, as always.

Dishoom, 12 Upper St Martin's Lane, WC2H