Princi has long since mastered the art of selling lukewarm pizza slices for £4+ but they now serve hot round pizzas in a new pizzeria where the bakery used to be. Fears that the entrance for this might have cut too far into the classic long glass counter are thankfully unfounded and the general balance of the main room remains much as it was before.

A good ham, mushroom, mozzarella, basil and cream cost £9.50 and as expected the base was perfect, and rather unexpectedly the cream topping worked well. They're also big, enough for 2 unless you're particularly keen on a crust overdose. The only nagging thought lurking at the back of one's mind might be that £13 for a pizza and drink would buy a pizza slice plus a large plate of salad, tea and a modest dessert in the old half of Princi but that would mean having to run the gauntlet along the counter instead of enjoying friendly table service and more space.

The other only nagging thought is that after all this time as the busiest place in Soho, and after every man and his dog has started a chain, there's still just the one Princi in London. What's that all about?

Princi, 135 Wardour Street, W1F