The small and well hidden space at 12 Jerusalem Passage in Clerkenwell has seen numerous restaurants pass through and so opening a sushi bar with just seven seats and a couple of tables might appear to be a brave move by chef Toru Takahashi and his wife, Harumi but their problems are only likely start when planning for larger premises as seven seats are not going to be enough.

Twenty one could be about right, still quite personal in size and would require a few carefully chosen deputy chefs to help out but small enough that Toru can keep a close eye on everything.

The menu of nigiri, maki and sashimi is long and mostly irrelevant. Better to decide on a budget and take whatever is presented on the banana leaf in front with the occasional "I'll have one of those" as interesting looking sushi is delivered to other seats. There was some lovely tuna, salmon, sea bream and more but the details are hard to keep track of and the fish depends on what's good on the day.

There was also a lot of fire. This is the best bit and where you should direct most cash as it brings a different dimension to the sushi, loosens up the rice and is fun to watch. All that messing around with wood burning open charcoal grilled Jospers does seem pointless when a hand held flame thrower does such an effective job in seconds.

A set option of 5 nigiri and 6 excellent salmon maki rolls for £20 is a good introduction but considerable self discipline is required to stop there and much higher bills are possible when one seared tuna nigiri is £6.40. What you are really paying for is to watch and listen to a skilled craftsman preparing lunch and the communal experience with fellow diners who are equally focussed on the food.

Sushi Tetsu, 12 Jerusalem Passage, EC1V