Polpo Smithfield takes it's inspiration from the Venetian inspired bàcaros of Soho which first appeared way back in late 2009. Maybe a little too much inspiration. Half the fun of Polpo was the different styles of the siblings and chains like Byron manage to give their restaurants a unique and occasionally inspired look, but here the brand is as strong as the burger and recreated in a spacious and not particularly well lit interior.

The bathroom, however, was beautifully lit and provides an example of chain evolution. Mishkin's has a pull chain flush which is groovy in a not so hygienic way, while Polpo Smithfield has a discreet, modern and cleaner silver push button in the old fashioned wood panelling. However, the new Bill's in Soho has retro pull chains so perhaps push buttons are cool?

Polpo's name is associated with small plates but a piadina and the £9 meatballs with spaghettini were each main course sized and not very shareable. With a veg side order for a balanced meal, you're looking at a slightly expensive £14 for spaghetti, meatballs and leaves. Other items are also pricey but all good quality and charmingly served by a mostly female team. More Polpos must be imminent on a trendy London street near you soon.

Meanwhile, on Piccadilly, an alternative approach to Italian small plates from the Manchester based San Carlos group has opened in the form of a bright, shiny, cosy, spacious, tourist friendly, not too touristy, sophisticated and informal Cicchetti.

It's a pleasant room and a shame to spend so long staring at a menu as long as the bar instead of admiring the Italian marble walls. A handful of main course options would save a lot of time.

A small pizza for £6.55 was ok if thinly topped, an £8-ish spider crab pasta special (below) fine although didn't justify the waiter's praise and the breaded veal tasted good. None of it quite goes together and the huge plates of pasta and salad in the takeaway deli counter by the entrance looked more satisfying.

Service was excellent, male and sharply dressed, and the £28 bill identical to Polpo without being as filling and in both cases not venturing anywhere near desserts/wine. You could have a proper meal for that much. But a nice place to be and no doubt more to follow.

Polpo Smithfield, 2-3 Cowcross Street, EC1M,
Cicchetti, 215 Piccadilly, W1J